Southern Alps, Kitadake, Hanging Ridge

Date: March 9-10, 2024

Members: Takumi Suzuki, Yasushi Yamanoi

Itinerary: Narada - Ikeyama Hanging Ridge - Kitadake - Narada

In summary, this expedition unfolded as a change of plans and, ultimately, a defeat. Originally intending to traverse the Shirane Sanzan, adverse weather and conditions compelled us to pivot to a Kitadake route. Mr. Yamanoi, having previously attempted the Shirane Sanzan traverse in the opposite direction two years ago, failed to summit Kitadake. Eager for redemption, he planned a winter ascent from the opposite route, selecting me as his climbing partner. Intrigued by the prospect of climbing Kitadake in winter and exploring the Shirane Sanzan mountains, I agreed to join the expedition.

Departing Chiba at 18:00 on March 8, I reached Ito Station, where I was picked up by car and driven to Narada. Arriving around 9:00, I took a brief nap in the car.

Waking up at 3:30 a.m. on March 9, we set out at 4 a.m. and reached the trailhead after a three-hour hike through the forest. Equipped with a kerchief, I began the ascent. After three hours of climbing, we reached Ikeyama Oike Hut, took a short break, and resumed the climb for about three more hours, reaching the tree line around 13:00. With strong winds and nine hours of walking behind us, we decided to camp at the tree line, aiming to reach Notori the next day.

The night brought increased winds and a predicted temperature of -20°C at the summit of Kitadake, but the forest zone already felt as cold. Despite wearing Patagonia down trousers, a down jacket, and a half-length montbell #1 and #5 sleeping bag with a cover, I felt the chill. Mr. Yamanoi, in only a montbell #2, faced similar conditions.

Waking up early on March 10 at 4 a.m., with diminished winds, we decided to switch to the Kitadake Piston due to the challenging climb over 8-tooth Col without ropes in full gear. Although strong winds persisted from Bokon-valleys to 8-tooth, we felt secure being empty-handed. Crossing 8-tooth, the conditions improved, revealing views of Mt. Ainodake and Mt. Notoridake. Despite considering a traverse, we pressed on, focusing on the slopes of Kitadake. Negotiating steep terrain and battling northwest winds, we ascended on all fours.

Safely standing on the summit, we captured a commemorative photograph. The wind subsided, the temperature remained bearable, and the skies were clear—a perfect setting. Descending cautiously, we returned to the tent site. 

Collecting our tents, we retraced our steps back to Narada. The forest walk proved challenging on the legs, and we reached the parking lot after 17:30. The total time spent over the two days was just under 21 hours. Reflecting on time alone, climbing Kitadake within 24 hours seemed plausible, but favorable conditions likely played a role. Regardless, we are grateful for successfully summiting Kitadake in winter. For Mr. Yamanoi, this marked his first winter mountain climb in 40 years, since his high school days.