Northern Alps, Mt. Nishihotaka, West Ridge

Date: February 10-12, 2024

Members: Takumi Suzuki, Motoshi Nishimura

Itinerary: Shin Hotaka - West ridge - Mt. Nishihotaka - Nishiho lodge - Shin Hotaka

The chosen mountain range for this expedition was the Southern part of the Northern Alps, specifically the Nishihotaka area. Known for its relatively low snowfall and accessible approach, it was an ideal location. A seasoned member of the Snow and Ice Society, familiar with the Nishihotaka lodge, joined as a partner. Although the conventional route was an option for our first winter ascent of Nishi-Hotaka, we opted for the variation route via Nishi-One. Despite the mild winter of 2024, the Nishi Ridge promised an immersive winter mountaineering experience.

On the evening of February 9, we convened in Matsumoto and drove to Shin Hotaka, spending the night in the parking lot. Rising early on February 10, we embarked on our journey at daybreak. No human footprints marked the base of the West Ridge, and as planned, we began the ascent. The snow depth varied from ankle to shin, with deeper sections on the slopes. The first day took us through the forest zone, experiencing some afternoon snowfall. We steadily gained altitude, camping just before a small peak near the tree line. The expedition lasted approximately nine and a half hours.

February 11 saw a slow start after sunrise, despite a forecast for clear skies. Unstable conditions greeted us, with avalanche-like slopes in the alpine zone due to the previous day's snowfall. Ropes and secured techniques were essential as we crossed these challenging terrains, reaching the summit by 15:00. The Nishi-Hotaka ridge, lacking significant snowfall due to the warm winter, posed visibility challenges, but we navigated to the lodge before sunset. Staying overnight in warm conditions, the expedition spanned ten and a half hours.

On February 12, after breakfast, we performed maintenance on Shinshu University's automatic weather observation equipment at Nishiho Hut, descending the mountain in time for the ropeway. Despite heavy steps from fatigue, attributed to the prior day's exertions, the climb through severe winter conditions in the Northern Alps was a rewarding experience. Negotiating rocky snow ridges and encountering mixed climbing challenges, the climb included handling snow shelters, traversing avalanche-prone areas, and utilizing ropes. This expedition provided immense enjoyment, reminding me of the true essence of mountain climbing. As I continue to assess my abilities and grow, I aim to savor the climbing experience in my own unique way, ensuring safety and enjoyment in equal measure.